Description

The new Gear V3 is here!

The new version has retained the great features of the V2 while making improvements that add quality to your prints.

New Improvements:

New printer body now houses Z motors and adds structural rigidity and stability to the Z gantry
Parts cooling fans now include fan ducts to direct air to where it is needed most
Included silicone sock for the heat block for more stable temps
Our heated bed is now insulated for more consistent temps
Improved spool holder for smoother spool rotation
Improved cable management internally and improved overall QC

Same Great Features:

Same large 300x300x400 build volume
Full metal construction with no printed parts
Easy to install X and Z end stop assembly
Volcano style hotend with oversized heat sink and dual parts fans
Same whisper quiet TMC2208 drivers on X and Y
32 bit controller with 3.5" color touch display Marlin 2.0 compatible
Built in belt tension adjustment and dual Z motor synchronizing belt
Smooth and precise .9 step angle stepper motors on X and Y

Resources:

Assembly Instructions

Firmware and firmware update instruction

Slicer factory file FFF (This format works with a variety of slicer programs)

FAQ:

Q. What are the carriages made of on the ZYLtech Gear V3?

A. The carriages are made of laser cut anodized aluminum plates, high strength/bolts and durable nylon wheels.

Q. What type of Control Board is included?

A. A MKS Robin Nano V1.2 with firmware installed. (Marlin 2.0 compatible)

Q. Can you print with a SD card?

A. Yes, a 4 GB Micro SD and USB adapter are included.

Q. Are the heated elements 12V or 24V?

A. Both the heated bed and hot end are 24V. All fans are 24V as well.

Q. What hot end does the ZYLtech Gear V3 use?

A. The ZYLtech Gear V3 uses a Bowden drive Extruder with a volcano style hotend. It is compatible with volcano style nozzles up to 1.2mm in diameter. The hotend has a 4mm bore allowing the PTFE to be fed directly to the brass nozzle. The high flow rate hotend is essential for large prints up to 300x300x400mm.

Q. What is the print bed made of?

A. The bed is made of 3mm aluminum with a plastic build surface similar to Buildtek. Glass bed upgrades are available. The maximum heating output is 240w. It only takes a few minutes to heat to 60C. We recommend printing at approximately 45C for PLA and 55C for PETG if using our blue PEI build surface.

ZYLTech Gear V3 Large Format Printer

Posted by RAThomas on Dec 9th 2020

With a resemblance to the Creality CR-10S Pro, this printer is a solid value at a significantly lower price. To sum up the "Pros", I'm pretty pleased with buying this to replace my homemade Prusa i3 variant. I've gained a solid, integrated unit and only lost my auto-leveling (and my mess of wires and external power supplies).

So onto the "Cons" (or better stated, things to watch out for):
- it's tricky to get the sheathed cable to the hotend secured so it doesn't get in the way. Refer to their pictures and adjust cable ties until happy. I printed a hanger to suspend it from the upper left corner
- The gear on the filament drive motor shaft worked loose and stopped gripping the filament after about 10 print hours. I suggest users tighten it's two set screws and maybe add some blue Locktite as I did.
- The Y carriage wheels were not properly tight out of the box. Users should check the bed for side-to-side play and adjust the eccentric nut(s) under the bed per the manual.
- The X carriage belt ends are pre-looped and tied with two small cable (zip) ties on each end. On mine at the left end, one of the cable ties interfered with the X carriage limit switch, tripping it before it could contact the correct target. I fixed this by both replacing the offending cable tie *and* clipping off the curved tip of the limit switch lever (be careful not to rip the lever off if you do this)
- The stock firmware is quite usable but with some minor annoyances. The Z homing speed keeps switching to a really slow setting, regardless of my changes. The good news is the firmware can be updated.
- Filament tends to collect between the heater block and the silicone sock around it. Later half-charred filament will be smeared over your new prints unless you are fastidious about cleaning it up. The fix to this is actually in your slicer settings. You should configure it to add the following pre-printer gcode functions:
-> Raise the print head (Z) before heating the hotend
-> Wipe the nozzle before printing

You should be able to find examples of "Marlin" Gcode for this two items by web search.

5 Reviews Hide Reviews Show Reviews

4
ZYLTech Gear V3 Large Format Printer

Posted by RAThomas on Dec 9th 2020

With a resemblance to the Creality CR-10S Pro, this printer is a solid value at a significantly lower price. To sum up the "Pros", I'm pretty pleased with buying this to replace my homemade Prusa i3 variant. I've gained a solid, integrated unit and only lost my auto-leveling (and my mess of wires and external power supplies).

So onto the "Cons" (or better stated, things to watch out for):
- it's tricky to get the sheathed cable to the hotend secured so it doesn't get in the way. Refer to their pictures and adjust cable ties until happy. I printed a hanger to suspend it from the upper left corner
- The gear on the filament drive motor shaft worked loose and stopped gripping the filament after about 10 print hours. I suggest users tighten it's two set screws and maybe add some blue Locktite as I did.
- The Y carriage wheels were not properly tight out of the box. Users should check the bed for side-to-side play and adjust the eccentric nut(s) under the bed per the manual.
- The X carriage belt ends are pre-looped and tied with two small cable (zip) ties on each end. On mine at the left end, one of the cable ties interfered with the X carriage limit switch, tripping it before it could contact the correct target. I fixed this by both replacing the offending cable tie *and* clipping off the curved tip of the limit switch lever (be careful not to rip the lever off if you do this)
- The stock firmware is quite usable but with some minor annoyances. The Z homing speed keeps switching to a really slow setting, regardless of my changes. The good news is the firmware can be updated.
- Filament tends to collect between the heater block and the silicone sock around it. Later half-charred filament will be smeared over your new prints unless you are fastidious about cleaning it up. The fix to this is actually in your slicer settings. You should configure it to add the following pre-printer gcode functions:
-> Raise the print head (Z) before heating the hotend
-> Wipe the nozzle before printing

You should be able to find examples of "Marlin" Gcode for this two items by web search.